
by
Dave Preston
I spent a week in Hawaii last month on the island of
Kauai, doing “research” on the motorcycle aspects of “The Garden Isle.” I had to
be a bit surreptitious; as this is the one week a year I do not ride motorcycles
and attempt to avoid talking about them. Of course I failed miserably at the
latter, but my wife is very understanding.
To give you some perspective, Kauai is only a couple of
dozen miles long, very narrow, and there are no roads on the west side at all.
This does restrict your riding options! In addition, the “main” highways are
two lanes and very narrow, and somewhat crowded. On the other hand, a bit of
research will get you some of the best roads ever.
What to ride? You’ll need to rent a bike, of course, and
there are several outlets. Two Wheels is the Harley dealer (and several other
brands). They have two rental locations, and there are several other rental
outfits. Rental places normally rent Harleys because 1.) That is what people
want and B.) They hold their resale value well, so the company can move them on
at the end of their rental life. Officially licensed Harley rental outlets all
use current model bikes, as required by Harley, while independent firms may use
bikes that are a few years old. In addition, you can rent a variety of “toddler”
scooters of various types.
Harleys are perfect for much of the island, where the
roads, the weather, and the attitude all encourage a laid-back cruiser
mentality. There is no reason to rush, as nobody else is, ever, and there is so
much to see.
Hawaii is a helmet optional state, and with temps in the
80s and relatively low speeds, that almost makes sense to me. Almost.
It did surprise me that I did not see a rental outfit for
larger scooters. A Honda Silver Wing or Reflex would be almost perfect for 99%
of the roads on the island, and for the type of short hops to the store or to a
scenic area you tend to take. I did see one privately owned such scooter at a
snorkeling area – there would be much to recommend such a choice. For the other
1%, see the next paragraph.
There is one road that begs for a sport bike. The road
up Waimea canyon is about 18 miles of curves, eases, bends, and hairpins. The
first 14 miles features virtually perfect asphalt. In fact, there are two
different routes you can take for the first dozen miles. One offers tighter
turns while the other offers a series of sweepers with beautiful vistas of the
ocean in the distance. Ridden in the morning, there is little traffic. I have
driven this road several times now in a variety of rental cars, and I always
ponder the perfect bike. The first year I decided my ZRX would be a lot of work,
but great fun. The second year I decided my ZX12R would be positively
terrifying – too big, too heavy, too long, and too much power! Any 600cc sport
bike would be a thrill, but given the laid-back nature of the island, I have now
settled on a bike of choice - any “Super-Moto” style bike would be a giggle of
epic proportions. I rode a KTM Duke a while ago, and the memories of that bike
came flooding back as I meandered up the hill in the rental car. Yet again, the
Harley is a good choice, as Tom Mehren of Sound RIDER! will attest to having
ridden this very road on a Heritage Softail in 2001 (A.D. that is).
Marital peace note for all of you gear-heads – my wife
has always gritted her teeth on this road as I over-drove a rented econo-box in
as sporty a manner as possible. This year, as a result of a long and hilarious
story, we had a Mustang convertible for the same price as the econo-box, and I
found myself content to cruise with the top down, as I would on a Harley. My
wife REALLY liked the result.
Another activity I strongly recommend is a day on the
Holo-Holo. This is a plus-60’ catamaran that offers a 7 hour excursion up the
coast of the island, with whale watching and dolphin watching, plus a stop for
snorkeling off a reef. It is simply the best “tourist” experience we have ever
had – we have gone twice and will do so every time we are fortunate enough to
return to Kauai. Breakfast and lunch is served, and the crewmembers are
magnificent in terms of taking care of everyone while not being obtrusive.
This year, as we stood at the front rail and plunged
through the waves, it dawned on me why we like it so much. It is very akin to
riding a fast motorcycle! You grip the railing and support your weight using
your knees and the balls of your feet to cushion the “bumps,” and enjoy the
spectacular scenery with the wind in your face. Most of the passengers
alternated between the deck and the cabin, while we pretty much stayed outside
and on our feet for the entire seven hours. The next day our feet and shoulders
were sore from the pounding, but it was well worth it.
The last leg of the day is a long haul across a
deep-water channel, where everyone is huddled inside – except me – standing
outside getting pummeled by water shooting over the bow. You guessed it – just
like a rapid motorcycle ride in the rain here in Washington!
Dave Preston
is the author of Motorcycle 101, a sensible book for the new and returning
rider. Pick up a copy today in the
Sound
RIDER! store.