Tire Sense: Pre Flat Considerations and Preparations
In a previous tire sense column, we discussed having the
proper tire repair tools when you’re on the road. But let’s take
a minute and backtrack to the point before the blow out and how we
arrived there. And then what?
Tire selection – Moving beyond the manufacturer's recommended tire
can cause trouble. For instance, consider Dualsport Dave’s tire
selection that ruined his dualsport weekend with his brother and
friends. Dave was going on a dualsport ride that started Saturday.
On the Wednesday before he realized he didn’t have enough tread to
get through the ride. He contacted the dealer and was informed they
didn’t have the right tire in stock, but could substitute a trials
tire in the same size. Dave took the offer and had the trials tire
mounted up. When he arrived at the dualsport event it was exactly
that – a dualsport event that utilized about a 50/50 mix of both
pavement and gravel roads. The first 60 miles of the Saturday
portion of the ride involved pavement at highway speeds which took
it’s toll on the soft compound of the trials tire. When Dave arrived
at the first gravel road he’d gnawed off half the knobbies on the
tire and traction at the center line was essentially nil. By noon
Dave decided it would be unsafe to ride the bike farther, hitched a
ride back to his truck, retrieved the bike and drove home. So much
for a great weekend with his other riding pals.
Photo: With the top of George's head exposed
it's plain to see that hydroplaning is in the cards as well as
little traction flex - it's time to change this tire.
Many adventure riders who started out on dirt bikes are convinced
they need a far more aggressive tread on their adventure bikes. And
Pirelli will be happy to sell you an aggressive 40/60 DOT highway
approved knobby to replace a standard 90/10 or 80/20 blend design.
But it doesn’t take too many miles on the pavement before that
knobby becomes deformed and traction dives to a minimum. The fact is
if you’re planning to ride both pavement and gravel roads 90/10 or
80/20 design tires like Avon’s Gripster and Distanzia models will
get you there just as well. And the wear patterns last much longer.
Selecting the wrong tread for the job can result in hours of time
wasted looking around for replacement treads during a trip when
you’re supposed to be out riding, not hanging out at the motorcycle
shop. Before you ride be sure your bike has the right tread for the
ride.
Tread Depth – One of the most overlooked situations when planning
for a trip is riders not paying attention to their tread depth
beforehand and considering how much tire is available for the trip.
Tread depth is measured in 32nds of an inch. Anything less than
4/32s is grounds for tire replacement because at this point the
tire won’t shed water as it should and will provide less traction
and stopping power due to a reduction in flexibility of the
compound.
And just how do you know if you have 4/32s or more? Do you have
a tread depth gauge to know? If you have a quarter in your pocket
you do. Simply place the quarter upside down into a groove near the
center. If the tire does not cover over any of the top of Mr.
Washington’s head then you have less than 4/32’s of tread left and
it’s time to replace that tire.
Because road surfaces vary and everyone rides a little
differently, it’s a good idea to start and maintain a log to
determine how many miles you typically ride per 1/32 of tread depth.
This way you can determine before the start of a long trip if you
need to toss your existing treads and start the trip off with a
fresh set.
For a more exact reading you can purchase a tread depth gauge at
better auto parts stores.
Before the ride – before each ride - ask yourself how you’re going
to get out of a blowout situation. There are various ways people do
this.
Most riders take off without any tire repair provisions and when
the blow out comes, they end up doing any number of things. Hunting
and pecking around for a can of inflato glue (which rarely works in
tube tires), stashing the bike while they ride two up into town with
a friend to hunt and peck for a new tire, tube or repair kit. This
results in hours of wasted time stalling the trip for as long as
it takes. The worst yet is riding back to civilization on a flat
tire at 10 miles per hour which can trash the wall of the tire and
cause damage to the rim. Any way you do it, it’s not what you had
hoped for.
Some riders leave home with a patch kit. Not a bad start. When
they get a flat they can repair the tire on the spot but what about
re-inflating it? While some carry Co2 cartridges they typically give
you less than the needed air pressure to ride away safely.
The most ready riders will ride with an
all purpose tire repair
kit (one that can handle tube and tubeless situations) and a small quality
pump which in most scenarios is all you’ll need to get back on track,
turning a several hour debacle into a 15 minute to 1 hour repair
stop, depending on if you’re fixing a tubeless or tube tire.
There are several other items to have along that can reduce time
spent dealing with a repair. On tube tires, nails have
a way of pock marking the opposite area of the tube from the
original nail puncture. As you ride the nail continues damaging the
rubber with each rotation until you realize you have a flat and
stop. This could be 25 rotations later and the tube may be
annihilated beyond repair. Wouldn’t it be nice at this moment to
have a spare tube onboard? You bet it would. They don’t take up much
space and can be slipped in under seats, over fenders or into your
luggage.
Replacing a tube in the middle of nowhere is not always
convenient. Especially if your bike does not have a center stand.
Having a tube of Slime tire sealant (motorcycle formula please) can
get you out in a jiffy until you have a more accommodating
environment to repair the tire. The sealant works for small tubeless
repairs as well but remember that it can eat up anodized and powder
coated rims so as soon as you can get the tire off to make a proper
repair and clean up the rim the better.
Repairing a flat as soon as possible can save you plenty of money
by not having to ride your bike on a flat out of wherever you are.
Riding a few miles on a flat tire will surely ruin the sidewall of
the tire making it unstable when you re-inflate it which can lead to
yet another blowout and possibly a low side crash.
Reducing your chance of a flat begins before the ride and being
ready for one will make the whole situation a lot easier to deal
with than not being ready at all.
Patrick Thomas/Summer 2008 |